Khadi, From History to Fashion: India’s Hand-Spun Legacy

Layered in the depths of Indian history is the heritage of hand-spun fabrics. With a legacy that stretches over a thousand years, the Indian textile, in all its forms, stands as a crucial testament to India's glorious history.

Illustration by The Geostrata

It finds itself on a journey of occasional but definite revival, with eminent highlights from its particular time period and cultural context. A contemporary fashion statement holds within its capacity not just a rather vogue sense of self-expression, but also the intricacies of Indian culture, heritage, and politics that one might often overlook at first glance.

The earliest evidence of Indian textiles places itself within the timeframe of 2500 and 2000 BCE, i.e., the era of the Indus Valley Civilisation.

Ahead of its time in a plethora of ways, the civilisation was home to some of the most intricate textile work of the period. Mehrgarh, an Indus Valley site in Balochistan, is home to what arguably is the first textile impression of the subcontinent. The pinnacle of urban culture that thrived in the heart of the Indian subcontinent, the civilisation played a crucial role in the global genesis of the varied practices shared by humanity. Textile production, from the cultivation of Gossypium (cotton), among the variety, stood tall as one of the more sophisticated practices.

Evidence exists for this with instances such as the excavation of male and female figurines wearing skirts from sites like Harappa and Mohenjo-Daro. The other prominent example signifying the stellar textile advancements of that period comes from Kot Diji, where one can find various animal depictions with coverings of different textiles and decorated leather.

Cotton has been embedded well within the finely woven history of the Indian subcontinent. Right from the Bronze to the Mediaeval ages, Indian cotton textiles have played a crucial role on the global stage. Traces of Indian textiles can be found as far afield as Rome, China, Greece, and Egypt, shaping not just the textile industry, but trade in general.

However, following the First War of Indian Independence (1857), the flourishing hand-spun cotton, which inherently stood as India's textile trademark, went into a rampant decline. The Industrial Revolution only worsened things for the local weavers and spinners, and the gloomy textile stagnation was further solidified.

Over this complex canvas, Khadi was spread in all its glory. Present throughout history, with various cultural renditions, one could essentially find Khadi in the South Asian spirit. From traces in the Indus Valley Civilisation to Aurangzeb's reign, hand-spun cotton has been part and parcel of our glorious Indian heirloom.

Reaped from local cotton produce, which was further to be spun by women and woven by men, the fabric found an awakening like never before in the early 1900s. With Gandhi campaigning for "Make in India", the textile found itself deeply entrenched in the political landscape of 1907. The political revival of Khadi made it synonymous with self-reliance and independence, and the "Khadi Movement," which began in 1918, ran its course throughout the subcontinent to reinforce the Khadi spirit that united all. 

Gandhi reinforced the concept of Khadi while speaking of instilling a Khadi spirit amongst all, drawing a beautiful parallel of how one must be patient while seeking independence – i.e., while sewing the thread of swaraj – just as the weavers are patient with the Khadi fabric itself. 

The movement, however, came with its share of drawbacks as the textile that advocated "consume what you can produce" was heavy on the pockets of the common person of colonial India. The political significance of the textile, however, did succeed in providing much-needed momentum to the freedom movement.

Post-independence, the All India Khadi and Village Industries Board was established, which, in April 1957, evolved into the Khadi and Village Industries Commission (KVIC), a statutory body responsible for the development, planning, coordination, and promotion of Khadi in India.

Today, Khadi stands as more than just a fabric of resistance. Dominating runways to the personal branding of Hollywood and Bollywood glamour, everyone, whether behind or in front of the curtain, can embrace a stitch of Khadi. The versatility and texture of the fabric give it body and make it the perfect Indian offering to the current global fashion scene.

From Fabindia and W, to Peter England and H&M, Khadi has dominated the global couture culture on more than a single occasion. The fabric caters to the modern consumer through not just shawls and kurtas, but a constellation of garments. Indian fashion designer, Shruti Sancheti, made commendable strides in the world of fashion by honouring the fabric through her collection 'Hut to Handloom' at the Indian Handloom Show presented by FDCI, hosted at the BRICS fashion summit 2023.

The Indian fashion legend, Sabyasachi Mukherjee, has on more than one occasion expressed his love and admiration for the fabric. Mukherjee’s Summer 2020 collection featured the fabric with a fresh take filled with sophistication and elegance, nevertheless keeping the inherently Indian spirit intact with a wide display of Khadi lehengas, sarees, and shararas.

The blend of contemporary silhouettes and colours, when put together with Khadi, showcases quintessential Indian luxury and fashion, stripped down to its essence.

The fabric is rooted in India's history and culture and is symbolic of a nation that holds its roots close to its heart.

With it being sustainable and climate-friendly, and redefining resilience and elegance, Khadi, in every aspect, is the paramount example of how the Indian fashion landscape is a dynamic fusion of heritage and modernity where traditional crafts meet avant-garde designs.

---

BY TAMANNA ARORA

TEAM GEOSTRATA

info@thegeostrata.com